Notes on life, art, photography and technology, by a Danish dropout bohemian.
"... that seems like a pretty crucial conjunction." -- The Emperor's New Groove
Impressive. The usual recommendation is to print decals and use them. I don't know you could even print decals that fine.I saw the girl tat in a google images search for custom minifigs the other day, didn't realize from the thumbnail it was so impressive.And yes they all look like stock mini-figs, except for the body art.
Alexthey print flag and shield decals for 6mm tall toy soldiers, so yes you can print decals that small
6mm, what scale is that? Risk! I have enough trouble with 28mm.I was thinking home decal kits, not professional.
"Dang", indeed! Arr...If you're going to attempt drawing on glossy plastic, I recommend the following:- First dip them in detergent (such as dishwashing liquid) to thoroughly wash away any trace of oily substances that might be left over from the industrial moulding process. You really-really want a surface as "physically" (and chemically) clean as possible. And use something like cotton gloves to handle them, like with ancient art pieces, to protect them from your oily fingerprints.- Experiment first with any drawing process, such as paint types (for less microscopic works), markers... I've seen fine-tip marker pens that COULD potentially draw such tiny stuff. If you've got good eyes! (Or special equipment, I bet.) If these ads are not mere Photoshop tricks or pure CGI, the pens they advertize might be interesting to try here. That is, if you have any cash left after purchasing the microscope. ;-)- Ideally, if possible, once you're finished drawing, embed your pigments in the plastic using a hot air flow (there must be devices for that). For instance, it seems that Playmobil are using a technique of that sort, their modern toys are often painted, and it's far more lasting than their old stuff from some 30 years ago, nowadays it seems to be FUSED with the plastic's surface. But be careful not to damage the plastic with too much heat! Before you put your masterpieces at risk, experiment, experiment, experiment.- Protect your artwork with a coat of transparent non-glossy varnish. I've seen some. Best place to look is specialized model kit shops.- And, last but not least, send photos to Eolake Stobblehouse's blog (I'll try to dig up the address for you), where a lot of people, myself included, can appreciate your talented work. ;-)I wonder if you can find printers that will give you such fine detail level. Another option is heat-shrinking plastic: transparent sheets which you decorate as you like, then expose them to controlled heat, and it shrinks, miniaturizing the art they carry. Again, you'll need to do some online searching, but there should exist something fit precisely for microscopic decals. Maybe even something you can heat-shrink wrapped directly over your Lego character so it takes on the right shape.Shiver me timbers, that's one authentic-lookin' scallywag! (But ah suspect he might be yeller. Me wooden leg is tingling...)Durn thing is, nowadays you can't trust anything you see to be real... especially if it's cool unusual stuff on the internet!Since this is an ad, this "make-up" is PROBABLY made up.Shouldn't keep you from making real artsy stuff of your own if you're good enough! :-)I once found an action figure of Disney's Tarzan, removed his loincloth, and "Greystoked" him. If you've seen the classic film with Chris Lambert you know what I mean. ;-)Nothing pornographic, I just craftily "un-smoothed" his perineum, with some sculpting and some painted shading.Years before that, I similarly "un-censored" a Barbie doll by giving her nipples and a bush.I've always HATED censorship, as early as I ca remember.Once had an anatomically-correct baby boy doll. But later gave it away to an underprivileged child.Maybe, subconsciously, I'm just doing all this because I miss my doll? ;-)
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