For a building this central and this busy, it really is surprisingly pleasant.
It was opened in 1911, but considering the size and cost and time of building such a thing, it was probably designed in 1890, I'd hazard.
(The last pic only shows a third of the width if I recall correctly.)
I guess my liking for it could be related to it being present in several of the periods of my life where I felt I went through a lot of personal/spiritual expansion. I could imagine that if one knew it mainly for going through it when going to a job one hated, for instance, it might "taste" different.